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My house tested high for radon what’s next?


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1. Isn't radon a hoax?

When it comes to the dangers of radon, there is overwhelming consensus that it is a grave public health hazard that needs to be addressed. The following organizations have all taken positions that the public should test for radon in their homes then remediate if they have levels over 4.0 pCi/L.

2. What is a safe radon level?
When it comes to the dangers of radon, there is overwhelming consensus that it is a grave public health hazard that needs to be addressed. The following organizations have all taken positions that the public should test for radon in their homes then remediate if they have levels over 4.0 pCi/L.
3. My new home came with a builder-installed passive radon system, is that good enough?
Frequently the answer to this question is no. In many cases, even a perfectly constructed passive radon system (and we don’t see many of these) cannot reduce radon levels sufficiently (below 4 pCi/l) due to the strength of the emanation of radon into the house. In these cases, we try to install a radon fan on the vent pipe in the attic to effectively reduce radon levels in the home.
Passive radon systems usually consist of a 3 or 4 inch PVC vent pipe that is sealed into the gravel layer under the basement slab or into a sealed sump cover which runs from the basement up through the home, into the attic and venting through the roof. The theory of a passive system is based on thermal stack effect, which causes a house to act as a vacuum on the soil due to temperature differences inside and outside the home.
A passive system’s vent pipe should be run through one of the combustion appliance chases (furnace or hot water heater) that run from the basement to the attic of a house. The heat inside these chases may create a vacuum in the vent pipe, but ONLY if the following conditions exist:
A. The floor-to-wall joint and all other basement slab openings, such as sump crocks are completely sealed.
B. The vent pipe has no completely horizontal runs.
There needs to be at least three feet of accessible, vertical vent pipe in the attic for us to convert a passive radon system to an active system for less than the cost of a completely new system. Builders frequently make the mistake of jamming their vent pipe into the soil beneath the home (thereby making it useless by blocking it) and venting the radon out the side of the home at or just above ground level.
Test your home! There is a very good chance that your builder-installed, passive radon system has not sufficiently lowered your radon levels.
4. Can’t I just caulk and paint my basement and solve my radon problem?
Painting and caulking alone will not effectively lower radon levels, but they can greatly increase the effectiveness of a radon mitigation system. This is because the suction or stack effect exerted by your home on the soil draws radon through so many minute openings that you could never seal them all. Besides, the atomic size of the harmful particles that radon generates, are so small that they can pass through most paint, plastic, building materials and other man-made materials with ease.
5. How much does a radon mitigation system cost?
The average cost of a radon system is between $1,700 – $3,000. By providing a free detailed in home estimate we will design the most cost effective yet efficient system for your home so you will not be surprised at the cost just pleased with the results.
6. How much will it cost to run?
About as much as leaving a 75 watt light bulb on 24 hours a day, which depending on where you are located, should be less than $100 per year.
7.How long will it take?
Installing a radon system usually takes between 1 to 2 days.
8. My neighbor had a low radon test result, so I am okay, right?
Wrong! Radon levels vary widely from home to home, depending on the geology around and beneath your home and the home’s construction. Also, the neighbor’s house may not have been tested properly. The only way to know your level is to properly test your home.
9. Are radon systems expensive?
Typically our standard warrantied mitigation systems, competed to all RMS EPA codes range from $1,700 to $3,000
10. If we once had a radon reading below 4 pci/l. (Ideal) but now it’s at 10 pci/l, what has happened? Do we need radon remediation?
Radon levels are always changing. Seasonality can play a role – winter is worse than summer. Time of day also plays a role, as well as the weather situation, wind levels, etc. If you consistently have high levels over a period of time, you probably need to move forward with removal.
11. When building a new home what can you do to reduce the risk of a radon problem or eliminate radon remediation?
First, know that it is impossible to determine how much radon a new home will attract. Every house has what’s called a unique pressurization signature. This is the result of the heating, ventilation, plumbing and drainage systems working together. It then applies this to the soil.
Here is some general advice when building: The integrity of the slab should be maintained at all times.
Cover sump pits; close the openings around sewer and water piping.  Reduce radon infiltration by increasing ventilation.
12. Are there less expensive solutions for radon remediation?

Yes, if you have the time and your levels are fairly low, performing baby steps to reduce your radon levels is a smart way to approach mitigation if your house tested right at the EPA or WHO threshold after performing a Long Term test. Often times small things will help to reduce that level to get you below the threshold. Examples would be sealing all the cracks in the slab, sealing the floor to wall joint and plumbing penetrations through the slab, supplying combustion appliances with proper combustion air and ensuring that HVAC systems are properly balanced. This will help to decrease the amount of radon entering the house reducing the radon levels slightly. Next step would be to do these items in conjunction with an ASD (Active Soil Depressurization). If you go this route regular testing is advised. If your levels are showing well above 4.0 pCi/L you will want to go directly to a professional mitigation service provider for a full estimate and to install a complete mitigation system to the RMS state and local codes.


The EPA recommends that you hire a NRPP certified radon specialist to diagnose and professionally mitigate your home to their RMS and local codes because the work requires specific technical knowledge and special skills. Unqualified people might actually increase your radon level or create other potential health hazards in your home. Because of the accumulative effect or radon exposure contact a professional mitigation company as soon as possible. Georgia Radon Solutions gives a free in home estimate by a certified mitigator that will allow you to have plenty of time to understand the solutions and ask as many questions as needed. We provide a number of reasonable guaranteed solutions with life of the structure transferable warranties making future real estate transactions smoother. By the way if you find a real estate agent that cares enough about you and your family to recommend a radon test, you've found a true professional, a real gem and worth recommending to everyone you know.
 

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About Us

Georgia Radon Solutions is a service oriented company utilizing advanced diagnostics, high quality materials and providing outstanding craftsmanship. Our goal is to exceed your expectations. With over 5 year’s experience Georgia Radon Solutions knowledge of the industry combined with our  well trained staff form this state of the art mitigation company that designs superior custom radon reduction systems based on advanced system diagnostics. By utilizing a whole home approach and strategically combining different methods of radon reduction we can guarantee we will produce results below 3.9 pCi/L or 2.6 pCi/L depending on your comfort level.
Owner Mitchell Stein is Certified NRPP Mitigation Solutions Provider with 10 years of professional experience in the radon mitigation field combined with 5 years as an ASHI Certified Home Inspector in the Atlanta, Georgia housing market. He completed his National Radon Proficiency Program (NRPP) and was certified in 2009 (#105742 RMT). He is also a NRPP Speaker Bureau Member. Mitchell is the current 2019 president of the Southeast Chapter of the American Association of Home Radon Scientists and Technologies (SEAARST). He was also certified by the American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI) in 2003. He has performed or overseen 500 plus successful mitigation systems to date.